I love my farmhouse coffee table!
After being in our new house for a year, we decided to make a few changes to the living room decor. Our living room furniture had been dominated by a large cream colored leather sectional. It looked fine, but I wanted to have more options as far as the location of furniture. The sectional made this impossible. So we went with new furniture. Y’all know that our three puppy dogs make ours the furriest house in the neighborhood so we had to go with leather- chocolate brown leather. I love the new furniture, but it darkened the room up quite a bit.
Enter the accessories. I decided a whitewashed farmhouse style coffee table would help lighten up he room a bit so I started searching for one. Having a quality piece that wouldn’t look out of place on the terrace at one of the great list of coffee shops was really what I wanted. There were a few examples that I found, but couldn’t find one I wanted to purchase. It was a great opportunity to commission The Mean Man to build me one.
Here’s what he came up with:
The table measures 32.5″ wide, 50″ long, 19″ tall. The Mean Man made the table from no. 2 whitewood pine.
2- 1 x 4 x 50 boards (long sides)
2- 1 x 4 x 25 3/8 boards (cross braces)
3- 1 x 6 x 23 3/8 boards (cross braces)
The legs are attached with two 2-1/2″ screws at this time. The following image has top frame shown upside down.
2- 1 x 4 x 50 boards (long sides)
2- 1 x 4 x 25- 3/8 boards (cross braces)
3- 1 x 6 x 23- 3/8 boards (cross braces)
2- 1 x 4 x 13- 1/8 (vertical braces)
The Mean Man used a pocket hole jig to connect the long boards with the cross braces using 1- 1/4″ course thread screws.
2- 1 x 6 x 32-1/2 boards (end pieces run horizontally)
4- 1 x 6 x 39-1/4 boards (center boards that run vertically)
3- 1 x 4 x 39-1/4 (center boards that run vertically)
(Alternate the 6″ and the 4″ width boards)
These top boards are glued and then secured with 1-1/4″ course thread screws (screwed through the bottom of the frame, of course).
14- 1 x 4 x 32-1/2 boards (these boards all run horizontally)
These boards are attached before you screw the legs into the base. The picture below is a little deceiving- the table top and legs are just resting on the base, they’re not attached here. We removed the table top and base so the base frame was accessible. This is just the dry fitting.
Below shows the completed base being screwed into the legs. We used 2-1/2 screws to attach the legs to the base (on per leg).
The feet are simply 5- 1/2 x 5-1/2 x 1″ blocks that are attached with four 1-1/4″ screws. The feet were sanded smooth before attaching.
Now it’s time to sand the piece to get ready for paint. Make sure everything is nicely smooth and lint free before applying the paint. We used a Valspar Chalky Paint tinted to Kid Gloves and we added a glaze since we were painting on and wiping off. The paint needed to stay wet a little longer.
The Mean Man painted it on, and I wiped it off.
The beauty of this technique is that you don’t have to be perfect. It’s supposed to look like there are imperfections- PERFECT for me!
After everything is painted, we sealed it with a wax sealer and just for an extra layer of protection, we added two coats of a matte enamel spray sealer with a light sanding in between coats (one pull with the 400 grit sanding block, not back and forth).
I’m so pleased with the result! It’s the perfect accent to our country home.